Bejeweled Persia - historic jewelry from the Qajar Dynasty

Persian culture is rich and deep. I find the topic enigmatic, mysterious and seductive. No wonder I have always gravitated towards learning more about it. As a jewelry designer, artist, a professor of jewelry and a bit of a jewelry history buff, I find Persian culture poetic - literature, art, crafts, architecture, deep sense of mathematics and of course the beautiful and all immersive world of its poetry. And there is much to learn...always!

In the past I have authored posts on, Top Ten - Largest Diamonds Discovered In The World, Splendors of Mughal India, The Magnificent Maharajas Of India, Mystery & History Of Marquise Diamond Cut, Ór - Ireland's Gold, The Legendary Cullinan Diamond, Bejeweled Persia - Historic Jewelry From The Qajar Dynasty, Famous Heart-Shaped Diamonds, Type II Diamonds, Green Diamonds, Red Diamonds and more. Over years, I have spent countless hours in self-driven studies on diamond, jewelry history and research. All good stuff, as I have accumulated a great deal of interesting knowledge, something that definitely informs my jewelry design and other artistic creations. I wrote these blogs for simple reason - to share my collected knowledge with all who are interested, so that more can benefit from it. Take a look and enjoy!

Now, getting back to the beauty of the Persian history! Its a VAST topic to say the least, I have tried my best to summarize what in my view are some of the most important Qajar jewels and artifacts that people should know about. Let's go...!

QAJAR DYNASTY (1779-1924): An overview

Source: {Maryam Ekhtiar, Department of Islamic Art, The Metropolitan Museum of Art & Marika Sardar, Institute of Fine Arts, New York University}

After the turmoil and strife of the eighteenth century in Persia, the rise to power of the Qajar dynasty (1779–1924) signaled a new peace and unity for the country. The Qajar shahs relied heavily on the visual arts to confirm and solidify their new position. One aspect of their public image tied them to the long history of Persia and its ancient dynasties, but another component of their identity was as modernizers and reformers. This involved both changes to the government and the acceptance of new technologies such as the railroad and the telegraph. In the arts, this meant support of the new techniques of lithography and photography, as well as innovative applications of existing forms in Iran such as portraiture and oil painting.

THE QAJAR JEWELS  

The Qajar jewelry and artifacts are like time capsules, the physical aesthetics and the technical way they were made had a lasting impact of how jewelry developed, and influenced other cultures. For the sake of ease and simplicity, I am going to categorize them here. [Note: I have tried my best to attribute images to their creators and original sources. Please contact me if you know the source of images that are not attributed.]

74.53 carat cushion cut fancy yellow diamond, set in a jewel from the late 19th century. A Qajar Dynasty diamond and jewel, a rare vestige of the Persian dynasty’s great passion for gemstones. Images: Sotheby's

74.53 carat cushion cut fancy yellow diamond, set in a jewel from the late 19th century. A Qajar Dynasty diamond and jewel. Image: Sotheby's

PROVENANCE
Sold by Sotheby’s on the 13 of May 1983, the diamond was auctioned on behalf of the grandchildren of His Late Imperial Majesty Sultan Ahmed Shah Qajar. Part of his private collection, the diamond was handed down to his heirs through his will.

Historical diamonds, steeped in a rich and varied history, are a rarity in today’s market. This diamond formed part of the private collection of his Late Imperial Majesty Sultan Ahmed Shah Qajar, the seventh and last King of the Qajar dynasty of Persia (r. 1909-1925). Willed to his grandchildren and sold by them at Sotheby’s in May of 1983, the jewel is a rare vestige of the Persian dynasty’s great passion for gemstones.

There are many photographs of Ahmed Shah wearing the fancy yellow diamond affixed to an aigrette. Such jewels were immensely popular amongst the men of the Imperial family and would most certainly have been handed down to Ahmed Shah by his predecessors. His great grandfather, Nasser al-Din Shah Qajar (b.1831-1896), the first modern Persian monarch to visit Europe and something of a Renaissance man, was a great lover of diamonds and gemstones. Fascinated by Western culture, Nasser al-Din Shah showed a great interest in painting, photography, writing and poetry. He also demonstrated a great love for jewels and gemstones which manifested itself in the commission of several important works now in the National Treasury of the Jewels of Iran. A ‘Globe of Jewels’, a globe constructed from thirty-four kilograms of gold and 3’656 grams of gemstones is but one of these wonders. The oceans and seas laid out in emeralds, the lands and geographical lines in diamonds and rubies, the globe is said to have been constructed in order to not lose track of the thousands of loose stones in the treasury. So impressive is this collection of jewels that today, the national treasury uses the crown jewels as a reserve for their currency. [Notes: Sotheby's]

The 74.53 ct. cushion shaped fancy yellow diamond formerly in the collection of the Persian Shah, Ahmed Shah Qajar, earned $2.9 million, setting an auction record for a fancy yellow diamond and a record price per carat for a fancy yellow diamond ($40,061 per carat). 2013 

74.53 carat cushion cut fancy yellow diamond, set in a jewel from the late 19th century. A Qajar Dynasty diamond and jewel. Image: Sotheby's

The Kiani Crown. Coronation crown, Iranian Crown Jewels. Used during the Qajar Dynasty. Image: Unknown, via Wikipedia
The Kiani Crown was used during the Qajar dynasty. Reza Shah, the founder of the Pahlavi dynasty, had his own crown designed but the Kiani crown was present during his coronation. The crown itself is made of red velvet which has thousands of gems set onto it. Fathali Shah is often shown in paintings wearing a similar crown - it is not known whether there were a number of crowns in use at the time which looked similar, or whether the artists simply portrayed the same crown in different ways. The Kiani crown has about 1800 pearls sown onto it, each from 7 to 9 mm. in diameter. There are approximately 300 emeralds set on the crown, the largest of which is about 80 cts. There are also about 1800 rubies and spinels on the crown, the largest of which is 120 cts. The largest diamond is 23 cts. The total height of the crown is 32 cm. without the aigrette, and the total width is 19.5 cm. [Source: Iran Chamber Society]

Mozaffar ad-Din Shah Qajar wearing his pearl Kiani crown. He was the 5th Shah of Qajar Dynasty and ruled between 1896-1907. Image: Unknown, Via Wikiedia

A few more images of the famous Kiani Crown.

Gold, Cabochon Emerald, Cabochon Ruby, Diamond, White Sapphire and Enamel Diadem, 19th Century. Qajar Style. Images: Sotheby's

A combination of two styles, the diadem decorated with table-cut white sapphires and applied with various colors of enamel depicting a floral motif of Indian origin, the center section of Qajar style applied with enamel flowers, the reverse depicting dancing girls, the front set with foil-backed cabochon emeralds, cabochon rubies and rose-cut and table-cut diamonds, internal circumference 21 inches, four white sapphires missing.

Gold, Cabochon Emerald, Cabochon Ruby, Diamond, White Sapphire and Enamel Diadem, 19th Century. Qajar Style. Images: Sotheby's

Qajar Enamelled Gold Pendant in form of a bird, 19th century. Image: Christies

In the form of a spread bird inset with foiled hard-stones, the polychrome enamel decoration rendering feathers to the front, the reverse with floral sprays, the wings and tail with hanging pearls. 2in. (5cm.) long. 

A Qajar Enamelled Gold Pendant in form of a bird, 19th century. Image: Christies

A Qajar gold, enamelled and gem-set eagle-form brooch, Persia, 19th century with wings outstretched, decorated throughout in polychrome enamels, set with emeralds and rubies, with pendant pearls suspended from the wings and tail by gold wire elements, fitted with a pin at the back. 7cm. Image: Sotheby's

Medal Of The Qajar Order Of The Sun. 19th Century AD / 13th Century AH. The central enamel roundel bearing the face of the female sun (aftab), emanating diamond-set rays. Image: Islamic Art Museum Malaysia

Medal Of The Qajar Order Of The Imperial Effigy. Persia. 1907-1909 AD / 1324-1326 AH. Image: Islamic Art Museum Malaysia

Three Qajar Enamelled Gold Rings, 19th century. Image: Christies
Each with domed bezel, the borders inset with pearls, the centre with a red gem, two lightly gadrooned, one with a stellar motif. 

Three Qajar Enamelled Gold Rings, 19th century. Image: Christies

Dagger (Jambiya), 18-19th century, Qajar, Persia. Image: The Metropolitan Museum of Art
Medium: Steel, ivory. Credit Line: John Stoneacre Ellis Collection, Gift of Mrs. Ellis and Augustus Van Horne Ellis, 1896

Dagger (Jambiya), 18-19th century, Qajar, Persia. Image: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Steel, ivory.

Detail: Dagger (Jambiya), 18-19th century, Qajar, Persia. Image: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Steel, ivory.

Detail: Dagger (Jambiya), 18-19th century, Qajar, Persia. Image: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Steel, ivory.

Dagger (Khanjar) with Sheath, 19th century, Qajar, Persia. Image: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Medium: Steel, gold, gemstone, copper, enamel, wood
Dimensions: H. with sheath 17 1/16 in. (43.3 cm); H. without sheath 15 1/8 in. (38.4 cm); H. of blade 9 1/8 in. (23.2 cm); W. 2 in. (5.1 cm); Wt. 14.6 oz. (413.9 g); Wt. of sheath 8.9 oz. (252.3 g). Credit Line: Bequest of George C. Stone, 1935

Dagger (Khanjar) with Sheath, 19th century, Qajar, Persia. Image: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Medium: Steel, gold, gemstone, copper, enamel, wood

Detail: Dagger (Khanjar) with Sheath, 19th century, Qajar, Persia. Image: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Medium: Steel, gold, gemstone, copper, enamel, wood

Detail: Dagger (Khanjar) with Sheath, 19th century, Qajar, Persia. Image: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Medium: Steel, gold, gemstone, copper, enamel, wood

Detail: Dagger (Khanjar) with Sheath, 19th century, Qajar, Persia. Image: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Medium: Steel, gold, gemstone, copper, enamel, wood

Enamelled gold pendant, 19th century, Qajar, Persia. Image: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Fabricated from sheet and half-round wire, enameled on obverse and reverse; Diam. 1 1/3 in. (3.3 cm). Gift of Mrs. Frederick F. Thompson, 1920

Enamelled gold pendant, 19th century, Qajar, Persia. Image: The Metropolitan Museum of Art.
Fabricated from sheet and half-round wire, enameled on obverse and reverse

The enamels of Qajar Iran are figurative, and closely resemble in style oil paintings produced during the same period. Scenes of youth and lovers are typical subjects depicted on these enamels. Both the oil paintings and enamels are valuable documents of prevalent styles in costume and jewelry. Round or elliptical enamel plaques such as this were commonly set into water pipes or other utilitarian objects. The engravings on the back of this pendant, however, may indicate that it was used as a talisman. The top line of engraving consists of a series of arrowlike signs separated by vertical strokes; the next six lines consist of an uninterrupted series of from nine to sixteen numbers, probably of occult significance. The bottom three lines contain the inscription: "Allah! Allah! Muhammad [the] Prophet/cAli ibn Abi-Talib/ (Quli?)." Whether or not the bottom line is a signature (the word quli means "slave" and was a common name in Iran) is not known.

A Qajar Period pearl and enamel ring, 19th century. Source: Unknown

A Qajar Period pearl and enamel ring, 19th century. Source: Unknown

Portraits in Pearls - Qajar Dynasty, Persia. 

I find them fascinating! These unique portraits in pearls come from a land were the Rubáiyát of Omar Khayyám was born. 

Fath cAli Shah Qajar (r. 1797–1834) sent a number of his sons and grandsons to the provinces as governors in an effort to centralize control. He initiated an extensive program of architectural construction in the capital and the provinces and commissions an unprecedented number of lifesize paintings for these palaces and pavilions. Local governors follow suit. Fath cAli Shah also commissioned portraits of himself as diplomatic gifts for foreign rulers and dignitaries. Portraits of the ruler and his court are not limited to lifesize but appear in small scale on lacquer and enamel objects as well. Fath cAli Shah revives the art of rock-relief sculpture associated with the ancient Persian dynasties, the Achaemenids (550–335 B.C.) and the Sasanians (221–642) and places them alongside those of his ancient predecessors. During the reign of his successor, Muhammad Shah (r. 1835–48), commissions of life size and monumental paintings decline and court patronage shifts to small-scale painting in lacquer.

Qajar Period (1794 to 1925). Pearls from the Gulf of Persia have been known for at least 2,700 years. Painting probably by Muhammad Hasan, period of Fath 'Ali Shah, A mother and child with parrot

Fatḥ-ʿAlī Shah Qajar (1772-1834). The wealth of Persia in the time of Fatḥ-ʿAlī Shah was represented, both literally and symbolically, in the elaborate pearled and jeweled decoration of men’s and women’s garments: ropes, tassels of pearls, armbands, collars, and hems encrusted with gems. Even cushions and carpets were decorated in this fashion. Image: Hermitage Museum.

Carpet of Pearls - Silk knotted carpets bearing pearls in the Qajar Period, Iran (1794 to 1925). Pearls from the Gulf of Persia have been known for at least 2,700 years. In Iran, the tradition of embroidering carpets with pearls and other gemstones, dates back to the Sassanian period between the 3rd and 7th centuries A.D.

The Qajar Imperial crown or Kayanid crown was rather high and heavy, entirely covered with priceless pearls and precious stones.

Fatḥ-ʿAlī Shah Qajar and his innumerable pearls. He commissioned great numbers of life size portraits of himself and his sons, which were placed in the interiors of his palaces and hunting lodges. These paintings formed the backdrop to elaborate court ceremonies. Image: Hermitage Museum.

A bejeweled girl acrobat balancing on the point of a dagger. c. 1840. Qajar Period.

"MUHAMMAD SHAH QAJAR, BY AHMAD, DATED AH 1260 1844 AD. Oil on canvas, the Shah seated on a chair in an interior wearing a red coat copiously embellished with pearls and diamonds, in a blue sash, jewelled epaulettes, bazubands, tassels and cuffs, with a thick beard and wearing a tall black cap encrusted with gems incorporating an inscription, holding a sceptre completely covered in diamonds and rubies, in his lap a sword encrusted with diamonds, on a carpet decorated with pearls, identificary inscription in cusped cartouche reading Al-Sultan b. al-Sultan Muhammad Shah Qajar, the painting signed faintly in the lower leftt raqam kamtarim Ahmad 1260, within a border of panels of nastal'liq verses divided by cusped roundels containing a hymn in his praise, the calligraphy signed in a green cartouche in the lower right corner Muhammad Isma'il ..., small repaired tear, re-lined, framed. 87½ x 50in.

Female tumbler. 1880 - 1830. Image: Victoria & Albert Museum.

Seated Woman Pouring Wine. Oil painting, 1800-1830. This painting is part of a group purchased by the Victoria and Albert Museum in 1876. At the time, it was described as being, "From the Shah's palace at Tehran."

The painting may well have been removed from a palace erected by Fath 'Ali Shah (reigned 1797-1834). His residences were often decorated with series of oil paintings in this style, which were built into the walls. The individual paintings are usually portraits of a single, large human figure. The shapes of the figures are flattened out, but there is a great deal of decorative detail.

Many of the series painted for Fath 'Ali Shah show imaginary portraits of members of a royal harem. In this example, a woman is shown seated on the floor in the Iranian manner. She leans against cushions and holds a wine flask and a glass.

Painting in oils was introduced to Iran after 1600, when the country had strong commercial links with Europe. Production shrank during the troubled period after the Afghan invasion of Iran in 1722. It burst back into life under the Qajar dynasty, who re-united the country in the 1780s and 1790s. Fath 'Ali Shah was the second ruler of this dynasty, and his patronage led to this revival of oil painting.

Baqir, portrait miniature of Fath 'Ali Shah, early 19th century

A Court Lady Playing a Santour, Attributable to the ‘Shirin Painter’, [detail], oil on canvas, 148 x 75.5 cm, circa 1840, Qajar, Persia, private collection. Image: Sothebys

European in style, this enamelled gold compendium was created for the Qajar court of 19th century Iran. It reflects both a taste for luxury and an interest in scientific knowledge. Image: Courtesy of the Aga Khan Trust for Culture

Qajar artifact. A comb with two lovers depicted on both sides. Nice painting with vivid colours and openwork on the sides featuring bird heads and dragons. Formerly Kajetan Fiedorowicz's collection. Image: Creative Museum

Amulet Box, 19th century. Gold, polychrome enamel, and repoussé decoration, 7/8 x 1 7/8 in., 0.1 lb. (2.3 x 4.8 cm). Image: Brooklyn Museum

A Qajar silver-mounted inscribed carnelian Armband (bazuband), Persia, 19th Century. Rectangular, engraved with a central cartouche containing inscriptions on a ground of floral interlace, surrounded by four panels containing inscriptions on a ground of scrolling floral vines, the silver mount with two hinged suspension loops decorated in openwork with foliate motifs
8 x 6 cm. Image: Bonhams

A Qajar gem-set and gold mounted jade Plaque. Persia, 19th Century. In the form of a flowerhead, the jade carved with petals and surmounted by a green glass bead, surrounded by a stepped gold mount set with turquoise and paste, small gold attachment loop to side and two jade attachment loops to reverse. 5.8 cm. diameter. Image: Bonhams

A group of twelve Amulets, Pendants and Seals. Persia, 18th - 20th Century. Comprising a silver amulet case with three suspension loops; six carnelians, one carnelian-set silver ring; two silver seals, one set with carnelian; one turquoise-set silver pendant with circular motifs; one gilt bronze pendant depicting a quadruped in relief the silver amulet case 7.3 cms. wide(12). Image: Bonhams

Two Qajar gem-set gold Earrings. Persia, 19th Century. Each of drop-shaped form, with gem-stones in raised gold settings, surrounded by a narrow blue enamelled border and a seed pearl edge, with seed pearl suspensions on twisted gold wire, verso with polychrome floral enamelled decoration, surmounted by gem-set floral and globular gilded silver filigree elements probably added later, with screw and loop. Image: Bonhams

A Qajar enamelled plaque mounted as a gold brooch. Persia, 19th Century. Of curved oval form, the polychrome enamel plaque depicting an elegantly dressed courtier holding a parakeet, the yellow gold mount decorated in filigree. Image: Bonhams

A large Qajar polychrome enamelled and gem-set gold pendant, Persia, 19th century of flowerhead form, the central raised emerald encircled by rubies, each petal with enamelled blue or pink ground surmounted by a ruby, emerald or sapphire, with a seed-pearl border, the reverse with polychrome enamelled design of birds and a butterfly amidst floral motifs, surmounted by a gem-set and enamelled bud-shaped section. Image: Sotheby's

A gold, enamelled and jewelled insignia of the Qajar order of the Lion and Sun, Persia, early 19th century of stellar form with stepped gold frame set with rubies featuring an enamelled medallion with recumbent lion in front of a rising sun, the rays with gradated pink and blue bands, hinged pin for attaching to reverse. 9cm. Image: Sotheby's

BADGE OF THE ORDER OF THE LION AND SUN. Iran. Date:ca. 1840–60

Materials and Technique: Gold, enamel, set with diamonds, rubies, garnets, green glass European-type orders of chivalry were introduced in Persia in the early 19th century and awarded to French and English diplomats who were recognized for their service to the Persian Shah. Set with diamonds and other precious gemstones, this finely painted enamel badge would have been presented to a high-ranking dignitary. Credit: Aga Khan Museum

Insignia of the Order of the Lion and the Sun, (collar, star and plaque), gold with painted enamels, set with diamonds, rubies and emeralds, signed by Muhammad Ja`far, Tehran, Iran dated 1242H, 1826-27. Image: Victoria & Albert Museum.

Image: Victoria & Albert Museum.

A pair of large Qajar gold, enamelled and jewelled earrings/hair pendants, Persia, 19th century. Each polychrome enamelled pendant set with a central gem-set flowerhead including rubies and emeralds, with hanging palmettes and seed-pearls, surmounted by a linked chain decorated with enamelled flowers and gem-set within a seed-pearl border, the reverse with ornate bird and floral design. Image: Sotheby's

A Qajar gold and enamelled earring, Persia, 19th century. The hammered gold sheet cut in a medallion form with two birds and a lotus bud, set with a colourful stone, enamelled with a scene of a mother and child on the front and adorsed birds on reverse, with pearl-strung elements
7cm. length. Image: Sotheby's

In the past I have authored posts on diamond, and jewelry history, such as, the Koh-i-Noor Diamond, Diamonds on Postage Stamps, Top Ten Largest Diamonds, Splendors of Mughal India, The Magnificent Maharajas Of India, Mystery & History Of Marquise Diamond Cut, Ór - Ireland's Gold, The Legendary Cullinan Diamond, Bejeweled Persia - Historic Jewelry From The Qajar Dynasty, Famous Heart-Shaped Diamonds, Type II Diamonds, Green Diamonds, Red Diamonds more. Being a curious artist that I am, over years I have spent countless hours in self-driven studies on jewelry history and in research. All good stuff, as I have accumulated a great deal of interesting knowledge, something that definitely informs my jewelry design and other artistic creations. I wrote these blogs for simple reasons - to share my collected knowledge with all who are interested so that more can benefit from it and for ease in accessibility. Take a look and enjoy!